The View FROM Nongkhai

Part 21

much of the following may be true

  Published 23 August 2005

A character in "Inversions" (Ian M Banks) says 'Truth I have learned, differs for everybody. Just as no two people ever see a rainbow in exactly the same place - and yet both most certainly see it, while the person seemingly standing right underneath it does not see it all - so truth is a question of where one stands, and the direction one is looking in at the time.' Observant readers will have noticed that I have changed the title of my website. Now you know why.

Earlier this month Dott and I undertook a small tour of North Thailand over 9 days. For me the lasting memory will be walking round the visitors centre at a waterfall in Doi Luang National Park, not far from Chiang Mai, being confronted by this image, and it's accompanying message in Thai and English. To me this message is so obvious that you would almost think that it is not necessary to repeat it. But as we know, the most powerful nation on Earth currently gives not a jot for this home for the rest of humanity, and refuses to do anything about it's contribution to global warming, being concerned only with how much of Earth's resources it controls, and how much money it is making from the rest of us.

We all like charts, so on a completely unrelated subject here is a link to a rundown of the Top 40. Not the top 40 hits, but the top 40 Lies promulgated by the Bush administration on the subject of War and Terrorism. All you should need to do is click on the text, but if that doesn't work, cut and paste it into the address bar of your browser.    http://www.citypages.com/databank/24/1182/article11417.asp

Dengue fever in Nongkhai

Yes it's true, Derrick was hit by Dengue fever and was hospitalized for a short period. When I visited, Derrick was complaining about Thai hospital food, and had not eaten anything substantial. He confided that what he really craved was a bowl of Julio's minestrone soup. Sensing a story and a photo opportunity I headed straight to Julio's and obtained some hot minestrone soup liberally sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. When I returned to the hospital, Derrick tucked in with relish and ate it all. Pictured left Derrick with the desired minestrone soup attended by nurse Nong. The funny thing is that Derrick's subsequent letter published in the Bangkok Post praising the hospital didn't mention sending out to Julio's for food.

In another curious co-incidence the same edition of Bangkok Post that printed Derrick's letter, also contained a long article written by Philip J Cunningham reflecting on the end of WWII from an Asian perspective. I have copied the article to a separate page, and recommend it to all readers with an IQ bigger than their shoe-size, both within Thailand and abroad. To read it click on this    Here is a small passage to whet your appetite.

"Historians generally agree a precipitous shortage of oil was one of Japan's key motivations in making a pre-emptive attack on Pearl Harbour and advancing south to Singapore and beyond, a strategy designed to secure resources and control vital Asian sea lanes.

It is thus disconcerting to witness, 60 years after the folly of Japan's aggression has been laid to rest by America, to see America itself engaging in pre-emptive strikes and ambitious geo-political positioning in hopes of pacifying corruption-fuelled Islamism while continuing to extract oil from Arabian deserts.'

Dott and Tony tour Thailand

We set off from Nongkhai after lunch on a Tuesday. We headed west along the south bank of the Mekhong. We took our time, travelling at modest speed, and stopping to take photos of the view each time it changed. None of my photos really do justice to the views of the river, but once when we were stopped we were passed by this happy group of farmers utilising some most unusual transport. Even though we were only 100 kms (60 miles) from Nongkhai, it was evident that farangs like myself were a rarity. Sadly, when we reached Chiang Khan, we had to leave the river behind, and head south to Loei, where we stayed the night.

Pictured left is an attractive 'fitness park' in the centre of Loei, only 200 m from our hotel. (Double room with bathroom and AC 400 baht - £6). Now I'd like to tell you that Dott and I made our way to the park, and joined in with all the people walking, jogging and exercising. But it wouldn't be true! Instead we made our way to the park and watched everyone else getting generally hot and sweaty, while we drank a couple of cool beers in the shade. Hey, but at least we walked to the park, on to a restaurant, and then walked back to the hotel.

Dott and I rarely rise before the clock reaches double figures. Holidays do not form an exception, so we missed breakfast the next morning, as it finished at 10 a.m. Still peckish we headed west once more, passing through Phu Rua, and Nakhon Thai and stopping for lunch at  Phitsanulok. From there we turned north, and chose to stop for the night in Uttaradit, as we could see a very big storm ahead. There we found a quiet hotel and a very attractive double room, with bathroom and AC also for 400 baht.

In Uttaradit we opted to dine at another, larger, hotel where we were entertained by the band pictured above. They played a variety of styles of music, and would perform requested songs if they were part of their repertoire. (So fortunately Rolf Harris was out - Julio please take note!) The leader (nearest camera) specialised in David Gilmour style guitar solos which I loved.

The next morning, although breakfast finished at 11 am, we managed to get to it with 5 minutes to spare.

 From Uttaradit we continued north to Phrae and Phayao, where we turned west to Wang Nua, and the final few kilometres to ban bon doi, (pictured above) the 'house on the hill'. There we found Chuck Pringle, a friend for some 5 years. One of the many things that we have in common is that we both worked for Costain for more than 21 years, so that we are both members of the Costain 21 Club, which is how we met. As former employees of perhaps the best construction company in the UK (it was in our days for sure) it seemed natural to pose for the camera with a building site behind us.

In front of us is Chuck's natural look swimming pool, while behind us is the holiday home he is building for a (very rich) friend. Chuck is a very busy man, so makes the perfect host. We were left in peace to do our thing, while he got on with his, but he kindly took time to introduce us to the 'must-see' things. One of which is Doi Luang national park, which is one of the largest national parks in Thailand, and is on his doorstep. There we found Wang Kaew waterfall. As well as this lovely picture, and that stunning image of the Earth with which I started, they had a serious message about illegal logging and deforestation. It explained that the forest acts as a sponge, soaking up the rainfall in the monsoon and releasing water in the dry season. So no forest = flooding in the monsoon and drought in the dry season. (= Issan which has no trees). We had not been home one week before Chiang Mai was inundated by flash floods. If ever there was a lesson being rammed home, that was it!

I am not a beer man, I am a wine man, but I tried this homemade beer of Chuck's (on the right), and I have to say that I have never tasted it's like. For a beer, it was superb! Chuck is also a great chef. On behalf of Dott and myself I want to say thank you Chuck for your hospitality, we hope to see you next year.

As we left Dott asked me 'How long have you known Chuck?' I replied truthfully that we had never met before, which Dott found difficult to believe. I explained that we had corresponded and had found a lot of things in common. I was agreeably surprised that our visit had revealed so many more areas of common interest! For example, how many people do you know who also have books by Ursula Le Guin, Tom Clancy and Robert Heinlein in their library?

Inevitably our stay came to an end. We said our farewells and headed west and south to Chiang Mai, where we checked in to an agreeable hotel which Chuck had recommended. This view of the city was taken on the road to Doi Suthep. The road winds upwards for about 10 kms, and sometimes affords views like this. Almost everybody who visits Chiang Mai also goes to Doi Suthep. Dan and I first went there in 1985. Not surprisingly it has changed in 20 years, but not a great deal. While Dott and I were there, I got chatting to a Thai woman at one of the many cafés. She told me that she lived there, and was there 20 years ago when Dan and I had visited. She didn't remember Dan or I, even when I told her that I had more hair then. I suppose it was fair as I didn't remember her either. What I did remember, was the Naga stair with its 306 steps (equivalent to a 20 storey building).

In 1985, Dan and I walked up them from the parking area to Wat Phrathat. In 2005 Dott and I took the recently added funicular railway. ( But we did walk down). The Chedi of Wat Phrathat is one of the most famous in Thailand, and is covered in engraved gold plate. In the picture right, Dott is dwarfed by one of the four golden umbrellas at each corner. In the picture far right is another Chedi. Less ornate for sure, but perhaps more important as a birthplace of (a) Buddha. I don't know how that works, I thought Buddha (the founder of Buddhism) was born in India. Can somebody explain?

At the foot of Doi Suthep is Chiang Mai zoo, most of which I found disappointing. The giant pandas were the exception. We were lucky enough to arrive at their large climate controlled house when they were feeding. For perhaps 15 minutes we watched entranced. They are very fussy eaters, and ate only the freshest bamboo. Then the spell broke. They had eaten enough and each went off to its sleeping platform (in the background below left), and became a furry distant lump, which had we arrived at that moment would also have been disappointing. Below right, Dott took a picture of these processional tortoises. You have to wonder what was going on.

Dott had never been to Chiang Mai before. Her lasting impression of it was summed up when she said 'I can't believe there are so many farangs'. For contrast one evening we went to watch some Thai boxing (Muay Thai) at a local bar area. While there we were approached by this girl in tribal costume. She had a little tray of goods, which she was trying to sell. Although there was nothing we wanted, we did start talking to her. She told us that she had made her bonnet herself in accordance with tribal tradition. She allowed Dott to pose with it (I did too, but it didn't suit me). I wanted to give her 20 baht as 'rent'

for her bonnet, but she would take the money only if we both bought a woven 'bracelet' which she was selling for 10 baht each. We duly bought the bracelets, which have turned out to be very good bookmarks. She then told us that we were her first sales of the day, and that she didn't think she was cut out to be a saleswoman. She would probably go back to her village and be with her children.

On the other side of the bar was this young lady (left). I took her photo for my friend Dan, because when we first came to Thailand in 1984, he was completely smitten by a Thai girl named Bua. Although I had then known Dan for more than two decades, I saw a side of him I had never before seen. Dan, this girl is the reincarnation of Bua. You should get back here fast!

The next day we left for Nakhon Sawan. It was our longest day's drive, some 420 km south on route 1. At Banphot Phisai we stayed  in this pretty house with Lee and Amnway. We had hoped to see the new arrival, but Amilee was born just over a week after we left. Lee and I met when we lived in the same village in Suffolk in the 70's, and have kept in touch ever since.

Admittedly it's been a while since I had seen Lee, because he had moved to France, which is where he met Amnway. Lee had never travelled outside Europe, so I think that it was incredibly brave of him to sell-up in France and move to Thailand just 10 weeks ago. Dott and I stayed only one night, as it was now more than a week since we had left home, but will go back to see Lee's new family before too long. Our journey took us north to Phitsanulok, then east retracing our steps to Loei. This was one of the views on that journey, in the area of Phu Rua. I didn't have to wait for a traffic free moment to take the shot, the roads really are that deserted.  

Once again we stayed the night in Loei. We were surprised to find our previous hotel was full, but we quickly found another that was better situated, with the same facilities, but only 350 baht (£5) per night. It made me realise that Nongkhai is becoming overpriced, often more expensive than Bangkok. I still like Nongkhai but I can see Dott and I could 'go west' one day. From Loei we went to Udonthani and then home to Nongkhai. As we reached home at the centre of Nongkhai, the odometer tripped over to 2000 kms. We had been away 9 days.

To Mr. A. Blair,
Appreciate your defense of Pres. G.W. Bush. I hope he is doing well. With all his hard work, he is having  to frequently take vacations and prefers the old, tired, phony ranch in Texas. Can only hope you might be able to suggest and convince him that on his next vacation trip, he take his family and friends and spend a few weeks viewing the sights of the beautiful country of Iraq and see how he has improved the lives of the citizens. He should be sure to go in the daylight and travel around outside the area that is known as green.

Name and address supplied.

Take heed : Don't pass out at the Outback Bar

or this might be you (photo by David)

Julio has long said that he will prepare dishes specially requested by regular customers, so Dott and I put him to the test. I can't reveal the dish, (there is a hint left) but it was excellent. Of course it cost more than a dish of the same name elsewhere, but then it tasted so much better than a dish of the same name elsewhere. You get what you pay for. Julio confided that he is planning a monthly 'Indian curry evening'. What a great idea! Count us in.